"Caput mundi": Rome as a world city

Ciao, belli. Time is winding down for me in the Eternal City, as much as I'm trying to deny it; the semester ends officially in two weeks, and my departure from European soil is just over a month away. Nevertheless, I'm determined to keep sharing the magic of Rome as long as I can.

As you may or may not be aware, President Obama made the trip to Rome to visit Pope Francis, the Colosseum, the Italian President Giorgio Napolitano, and the new Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi. The weekend before, Rome had also hosted its annual marathon, which was attended by thousands from all over the world. Though it's known mainly for its monuments and as the capital of a nation globally endeared for its food and hospitality, Rome is still very much a living metropolis, alive with socio-political activity as well as cultural allure. The ancients called it "caput mundi" (head of the world) for a reason, and even today it holds onto much of its prestige and importance in the global spotlight.

Stationed at kilometer 37 of the Rome Marathon

Runner in a toga. Classically classic.

Rome is of course the seat of the Italian national government, which in spite of some severe political shortcomings - some still the indirect results of Fascism's dark entrance into Italian history - remains an important player on the European and world stage. Depending on how engaged you are with overseas affairs, you may have heard of a man named Silvio Berlusconi, media-mogul-turned-politician who's dominated Italian politics for over twenty years and is now under house arrest for tax fraud. If you're really current, you'll have heard of Italy's new "bulldozer" prime minister Matteo Renzi (appointed to office this past February!), formerly mayor of Florence and now the youngest P.M. since Italian unification in 1861. Though it hasn't affected me personally as an American student, Italian politics have been quite colicky these past few months; during the U.S. government shutdown, Italy faced its own shutdown when five cabinet ministers resigned under Berlusconi's orders (even though he's been evicted from the Senate) and almost caused a dissolution of Parliament. The ever-popular Berlusconi's friendship with Vladimir Putin, in spite of a history of supporting U.S. interests, has also seasoned Italy's perspective on the recent tensions with Russia; there were anti-U.S. government protests near the American Embassy in response to Obama's visit.

"Rome stands with Putin. Obama [is] an unwanted guest."

And as I'm sure you know, Rome is also the home of the Roman Catholic Church, whose political base is the Vatican City. Italians in general seem to be strongly culturally Catholic and not as spiritually devoted as I expected, but the presence of the Church is certainly a major one in Rome. Tens of thousands from all over the world flock to Saint Peter's Square every day - especially on Wednesdays for the general audiences and on Sundays for Mass - while thousands more crowd the impressive Vatican Museums in the meantime. All over the city, street vendors offer everything from bracelets to posters to flags to spoons with the Pope's face on it (or, recently, the two popes about to be canonized: John XXIII and John Paul II); rosaries and religious medals; icons, mini statues, and prayer cards; and my personal favorite: calendars of handsome priests instead of scantily-clad firemen. Every day I pass dozens of sisters, nuns, priests, deacons, and monks on the streets: some native Italians, others pilgrims from every continent, others seminarians or students like me. The Sunday after Easter this year, two enormously popular Catholics - Popes John XXII and John Paul II - will be canonized, an event during which Rome will be braced for an onslaught of millions of international devotees. At the risk of being spiritually punny, Rome is the Mecca of Catholicism, and its hundreds of churches and famous spiritual works testify to this.

The famous PopeMobile

Ciao, Papa!

Tens of thousands gather in Saint Peter's Square every time Papa Francesco appears

Rome's unique global importance culminated for me last week when within the span of about twenty-four hours I had been five feet from Pope Francis and a hundred fifty feet from President Obama. I was lucky enough to attend my second general audience with Papa Francesco - my fourth time seeing him in person - on that Wednesday, and the following day I was hanging out of the SMC library window to watch President Obama's motorcade zoom past on his way from the Vatican to the Colosseum. Dozens of people - Americans, Italians, and others - ran to watch POTUS wave out the window. It's interesting that the closest I have been - and may ever be - to an American president was in Italy. Che strano. 

Living in a world city - particularly this one - has been quite the experience. Marked with traffic, celebrities, politics, strikes, protests, demonstrations, and excitement, it's been a thrilling roller-coaster of activity since day one. Returning to the quiet American Midwest will surely be an adjustment, a relief, and a major letdown all in one. But until then, all I can do is revel in the noisy streets, the smoky city air, the flurry of shoppers and vendors and commuters, and the boundless opportunities for as long as I'm still here.

And lest you dare forget: SPQR!